The Tudor Black Bay Uncovered: History, variations, price and more…
The Tudor Black Bay has become a somewhat celebrity in the world of horology. Almost out of nowhere, the Black Bay led the revitalisation of Tudor from watch brand described as a limp dog, to a fighting racehorse winning every outing. Thanks to Davide Cerrato, the CEO at the time, the Tudor Black Bay has been cemented as one of, if not the flagship Tudor watch. Before we jump too many decades too quickly, where did the Black Bay’s history start? What variants make up the ever-expanding Tudor Black Bay watch line, and what models would be my pick?
The History of the Tudor Black Bay
The Tudor Black Bay has become a somewhat celebrity in the world of horology. Almost out of nowhere, the Black Bay led the revitalisation of Tudor from watch brand described as a limp dog, to a fighting racehorse winning every outing. Thanks to Davide Cerrato, the CEO at the time, the Tudor Black Bay has been cemented as one of, if not the flagship Tudor watch. Before we jump too many decades too quickly, where did the Black Bay’s history start? What variants make up the ever-expanding Tudor Black Bay watch line, and what models would be my pick?
Released in 2012, the Tudor Black Bay leans heavily on its bigger brother’s vintage past, Rolex (and Tudor) released some of the first purposefully built divers watches in 1954, with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner (reference 7922) being an almost carbon copy of the Rolex Submariner, with a different branded dial; the watches even shared the famous Mercedes hands. The Tudor Black Bay second hand has been aptly called the snowflake, due to its angular square design synonymous with modern-day Tudors, did not appear in the range for a further 15 years, where reference number 7016 further introduced design elements that would become the foundation of the Tudor Black Bay, which has spawned so many fantastic models.
2012
The Heritage Black Bay launched in 2012 had a distinct burgundy bezel, highlighting the bolder approach Tudor was willing to take over its guardian Rolex. The Tudor rose logo applied to the dial, 200m of water resistance denoted by the ‘smile’ text at 6 o’clock, and the now hefty 41mm case diameter that was so thick it almost felt top-heavy. The heritage grabbed my attention, but the timeline of releases to follow is where Tudor really started to become a household name at an unbeatable price point. I’ve pulled out the models which to me, are the ones worth covering due to their impact and those that act as stepping stones in shaping the modern perception of Tudor.
2014
Without delving too much into minor colour variations, Tudor introduced Ref. 79220B. This model featured a matte black dial paired with silver and white applied indices, alongside a navy-blue bezel. The Tudor rose was still apparent, and it felt Tudor rightfully acknowledged the colour ways of the early Tudor Submariner’s. The introduction of the 79220N brought a black dial at 12 o’clock, heavily drawing inspiration from early Rolex Submariner designs. At this point, Tudor was still using off-the-shelf ETA movements, keeping prices down – a practical decision, but one that left room for technical improvement to stay competitive.
2016 – The first big milestone
2016 brought us in-house Tudor movements. Designed and manufactured in collaboration with Kenissi, a Swiss movement manufacture partly owned by Tudor, the new movement brought us a whopping 70-hour power reserve, alongside a now anti-magnetic balance spring made of silicon. The cherry on the cake? Models hereon were now COSC-certified.
For context, COSC certification governs the tolerances for how accurately a watch gains or loses time over the course of a day. As a benchmark, watches must achieve an accuracy range of -4 to +6 seconds per day to meet the standard.
2017 – get tracking!
While it didn’t quite fit into my traditional Black Bay lineup, Tudor launched the Tudor Black Bay Chrono. This racing, vintage-inspired chronograph, mimicking early Rolex Daytona’s, sped out of the pit lane with 200m water resistance, a black tachymeter aluminium bezel, and quality that was apparent from the outset. I had to include this, 1) because the panda (white dial) is stunning, and 2) if I didn’t mention it now, a recently launched watch from early 2025 wouldn’t fit into this lineup.
2018
The Tudor Black Bay GMT launched with two distinct colourways. The first was the Tudor Black Bay S&G, sporting a root beer aesthetic and an optional steel-and-gold-capped bracelet. The second was a white-faced Pepsi colourway (blue and red, 24-hour rotating bezel) with the ability to track two distinct time zones. The Tudor GMT hand could be set independently, allowing the wearer to track different times without needing to reset and amend the entire watch. However, I can’t overlook the sheer thickness of this watch.
2018 also brought us the people’s Black Bay: the Tudor Black Bay 58.
The Black Bay 58 retained the design of earlier models but compressed everything into a smaller, 39mm case package with a new movement to match. The initial release featured a black bezel, black dial, and red triangle at 12.
While we had to wait until 2020 for the release of the blue variant, both were powered by the new in-house calibre MT5402 movement. The best part? The case went on a diet—slimming down to 11.9mm from the original 13.6mm wrist skyscraper.
2022
2022 brought us adventure. The Tudor Black Bay Pro was marketed with a focus on exploration and expedition, diverging slightly from the traditional diver-oriented offerings. The Black Bay Pro features a GMT function with a striking yellow GMT hand, a 24-hour bezel made from brushed steel, and chunky blocks of lume applied to the dial. Vintage Rolex Explorer II models are part of my grail watch collection, and this nearly ticked every box. I can only hope that 2025 and beyond bring us a white-dialed variant, incorporating the movement from the 2024 Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to reduce the case thickness.
2023
2023 further slimmed down the Black Bay lineup. The Tudor Black Bay 54 launched with a 37mm case and a thinner profile at just 11.2mm. While the package is small, it still packs a punch. Tudor’s vintage inspiration remains clear in the BB54, which stays true to the brand’s design language. That said, we’re left wondering when new models will expand the 54 range, as the current black-dial version remains a standalone offering.
2024
Will Tudor ever slow down? 2024 brought us two major releases: the Tudor Black Bay Monochrome and the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT.
The Tudor Black Bay Monochrome introduced what I’d call the next major milestone for Tudor—the in-house METAS-certified Master Chronometer calibre MT5602-U. This movement was first seen introduced years prior, in the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic and the revised 2023 41mm Burgundy Black Bay model. However, bringing the METAS movement to a more desirable housing.
METAS certification is essentially COSC certification on steroids. Not only does it test for tighter tolerances, but it also evaluates magnetic resistance, water resistance, and available power reserve.
The Black Bay 58 GMT, on the other hand, brings the Tudor package closer to perfection. It features a thinner METAS-certified GMT movement with the ability to set the GMT hand independently. The only thing missing? An expansion of the range to include a white-dialled version – or perhaps even leveraging this movement in the BB Pro.
Used Tudor Black Bays
As the trend with any new watch purchase is to consider the future values, or even to justify the initial outlay as an ‘investment’, a used Tudor Black Bay is a relatively stable bet. There are so many great models that come in plenty of different colours, sizes and movement features, narrowing down what takes your fancy is going to be the hardest part of the purchase.
In terms of value for money, and by ‘value’ I mean the biggest gap between second hand values to new recommended retail prices, you could pick the solid 18k Tudor Black Bay 58 gold. Model 79018 comes with an 18k gold bracelet, with an RRP at £28,760!! Used new stock? A healthy saving of over £9,000 off this price. Yes, this might be tongue in cheek as much as I love Tudor, for a similar price you could get yourself a full gold Rolex. For a similar look, a Tudor Black Bay Harrod’s edition for under £3,000.
My personal favourite Tudor Black Bay
My favourite is the watch that got caught me hook, line and sinker, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue. During the global COVID pandemic, I found myself continually looking at what watches were available for less than £3,000 which would meet the following criteria:
- Below 40mm case diameter, as my 7-inch wrists are quite flat
- To be purchased on a steel bracelet, with future strap options possible
- A spot of colour, ruling out any black watches for the time being
- Under £3,000!
The Tudor Black Bay 58 was an easy choice, thanks to its appealing 39mm case diameter. I opted for the blue version, as black watches have always felt a bit plain to me (ironic, considering I’m currently wearing a black 44mm Panerai – classic fickle watch lover behaviour).
The toughest part of the purchase journey was finding a watch actually available at an authorised dealer. Thankfully, I managed to snag mine nearly four years ago (pre-annual prices rises), and it hasn’t missed a beat since. It’s been my trusty companion, enduring countless desk dives during meetings, surviving wild nights out (looking at you, e-scooter and those treacherous speed bumps), and braving freezing Nordic temperatures during my time in Oslo.
There have been times where I have considered changing it up as my tastes have continually changed after delving deeper into the world of watches. Whether this has been from newer releases from Tudor, with the Tudor Black Bay Pro almost tempting me due to my declared love for a Rolex Explorer 2, or a gilded Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that brought a new meaning to the word class and functionality. I’ve not faulted, and I’m quite romanticised by keeping my first serious watch purchased in the collection forever.
Throughout its tenure in my collection, I have never removed the stainless-steel bracelet. Initially I purchased several one-piece nylon straps to change frequently, but I am now leaning towards purchasing a Tudor Black Bay rubber strap for the summer months.
Summarising the Tudor Black Bay collection
The Tudor Black Bay has undoubtedly transformed the brand from a niche player to a powerhouse in the world of horology. Since its debut in 2012, the Black Bay has continually evolved, blending vintage inspiration with modern aspiration. Key milestones, such as the introduction of in-house movements and the METAS-certified calibres, have solidified Tudor’s reputation for exceptional quality at an accessible price point. With models ranging from the classic Black Bay 58 to the adventurous Black Bay Pro, Tudor has offered something for every enthusiast.
My personal journey with the Black Bay 58, speaks to the enduring appeal of this versatile timepiece. Despite my shifting tastes and occasional temptations by newer releases, the Black Bay remains my steadfast companion—offering timeless design, reliability, and a sense of connection to the history of Tudor. As the brand continues to innovate, it’s clear that the Black Bay will remain at the heart of Tudor’s success. It is starting to feel wrong to call Tudor the little sibling of Rolex, when it’s more of the get up and go brother.
Win a Tudor Black Bay 58 – enter today!
Don’t miss your chance to own a Tudor Black Bay 58. Enter our live competition for the opportunity to win a brand new Black Bay 58 blue!
Tickets are £10 and limited to just 700 entries so get your entry in before it’s too late!
Please note: competition closes at 9:00pm on the 2nd February 2025
