The TAG Heuer Monaco Uncovered

The origins of the TAG Heuer Monaco watch can be traced back to 1969. Designed by Jack Heuer to commemorate the Monaco Grand Prix, the watch was one of the first to feature a square face and was equipped with the revolutionary Calibre 11 movement—a self-winding, automatic mechanism.

Much like the Big Bang – or more precisely, cosmic inflation – everything traces back to a singular moment. For the Monaco watch, that moment came shortly after its release, in the 1971 film Le Mans, starring Steve McQueen. This marked a marketing success for Heuer, as they provided the watch to the production team as a prop without directly paying McQueen. The Monaco reference 1133 would forever become associated with motorsport and exhilaration.

Cars and watches share a similar audience—individuals who appreciate finely crafted mechanical objects that stand in contrast to the modern, always-connected world of the Internet of Things (IoT). While Steve McQueen may not be as familiar to Gen Z and beyond, it’s hard to find anyone who hasn’t seen the iconic image of McQueen in white, red, and blue striped racing overalls, emblazoned with “Chronograph Heuer” and “Gulf.”

Horological institutions have become adept at leveraging the 7Ps of marketing to engage consumers effectively. Heuer was ahead of the curve; although the Le Mans marketing campaign is now over 50 years old, subsequent generations continue to associate the brand’s current products with memories of their fathers or grandfathers tinkering in workshops adorned with worn enamel Gulf signs and slightly tattered film posters—embodying a distinctive sense of ‘rugged elegance.’

TAG Monaco fundamentals & production

The Monaco TAG Heuer has had a sporadic life with the initial production run only lasting between1969 and the mid 1970s.  The Monaco watch was then phased back into production circa 20 years later in 1998 after pop-culture took an interest in McQueen. 

The design principles of the TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph are relatively simple:

• It’s a chronograph
• It’s square

“It’s a chronograph:

A chronograph is essentially a timepiece that combines stopwatch functionality into a standard wristwatch. Chronographs have distinct features that enable the wearer to measure elapsed time in addition to telling time. This uses additional, independent hands to typically measure the desired metric – remember speed = distance/time!

The TAG Monaco chronograph design incorporates the following elements:

• Like most chronograph watches, the TAG Monaco has dual pushers located on the outside of the case that start, stop, and reset the inbuilt chronograph.


• The Monaco has two sub-dials—one for measuring chronograph minutes and the other for a running seconds display, typically placed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions.


• In-house designed and built Calibre 11 or Calibre 12 automatic movements, negating the requirements of the manual wind. This also provides the foundation of accurate timekeeping and smooth operation of the chronograph function. You might not need to measure the lap time of a race, but never fail to poach the perfect egg ever again. 

There are a few exceptions to this, where the TAG Heuer Monaco quartz range was created to appeal on a more entry level basis, retaining the design principles at a lower price point. 

• The stopwatch functionality is conducted by the central chronograph hand, which is used to measure elapsed seconds, while the rounded square sub-dials track elapsed minutes.

“It’s a square“

Square watches are not all that common in the horological world as round is the norm. Clock faces have always been circular, and the transition from the grandfather clock to the wrist is no different.

The market is niche, the consumer demand is unique, but as we all know, this means the watches on our wrist can stand out from the crowd and really pack a punch to become the talking point of dinner.

The TAG Heuer Monaco Models & Variants

The TAG Heuer Monaco that Steve McQueen wore was just the beginning. Countless models have followed the original Monaco’s foundations, provided choice and availability through the Tag Heuer Monaco preowned market. It must be 10to2, as it’s time to dive in to the range.

Black on black on black – Night Driver

The original Dark Lord is almost a fable in the Heuer Monaco history. We are led to believe less than 200 pieces were ever produced, and the visionary watch was the first ever to come with a DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating; strong as nails and downright gorgeous. So popular that TAG reissued a similar watch to celebrate the homonymous race in 2022.

The Night Driver has an opaline-grey outer dial and matching sub dials, whilst the rest of the watch face is a subtle shade of grey. Turn the lights off, but don’t carry me home – this TAG Heuer Monaco black’s party trick is the full luminescent face which glows blue for a euphoric, legible experience. This TAG Heuer Monaco price is reflective of its skill, initially retailing at £8,350 but now fully sold out, can be had for a steal at less than £5,000 + shipping and local taxes from Japan (source – Chrono24). 

Pack a punch – Gulf Edition

As previously highlighted, Gulf and Heuer go back a long way. Gulf has many longstanding partnerships in the motorsport’s world, ranging from Porsche’s 917 in the Steve McQueen era, McLaren’s CAN-AM entry, Audi R8 Le Mans in the noughties and most recently the special liveried McLaren F1 cars that grace our screen with eye catching blue and orange one-offs.The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf editions incorporate these colours on the dial and onto the accompanied leather or rubber straps. Remember those old enamel signs in the garage? They have always been bold, look good with plenty of wear and provide the aficionado a trigger to let lose – this watch is no different. 

How do we choose the best? It’s tough. 

First, pick the movement. The TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 is a good place to start. The see-through case back means the rotor is on full view, so when you pass the watch around your friends whilst the race is on everyone gets to see the internal mechanics. The current Calibre 11 is a nod to the past, but utilises modern parts to ensure accurate, robust and reliable timekeeping.

Next? Pick the strap. The TAG Heuer Monaco strap is typically found on matching leather stitch, or if you are feeling extra sporty then pair with an orange rubber for maximum comfort. Our favourite is the FKM rubber strap in citrus orange from Horus watch straps. Next time you hit up the newly introduced Madrid GP, grab an Aperol to match and happiness won’t be too far away. 

Considering all of this, my pick is the 39mm Monaco, reference number CAW211D.FC6300, which comes with 100m water resistance, a striking blue and orange dial, sapphire crystal and delightful branded dial. A second hand TAG Monaco can be purchased for less than £6,000 from a variety of trusted dealers. 

Halloween is appropriate all year round

The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton is a watch that isn’t limited to the end of October. Reference CBL2182.FT6235 was released in 2023, with a transparent dial nestled within a grade 2 titanium case and a turquoise colour palate signifying Monaco’s stunning coastline. This watch plays on the mind, we all know red equates to speed… there’s reason red cars always go faster. The red hands within the sub dial ensure legibility on a watch otherwise lost in the mechanical matrix behind.

When the sunset has past, the luminated hands and indices are almost Tron-like, keeping information and detail displayed to a minimum. This watch is not cheap, retailing around £9,300, but will certainly be one you grab out of the watch box often.

Bamford Watch Department

I wanted to give a personal shout-out to Bamford Watch Department. Their official Tag Heuer partnership has created some unique and insanely cool specifications that have never quite been available directly from TAG Heuer. George Bamford and his team created the nigh-on perfect TAG Heuer Bamford Monaco. The design is provocative, merging a carbon case to the very watch that symbolises motorsport.

I have never seen one in the flesh, but photos alone tamper my itch. In a sea of readily available watches, customisation has always been the unspoken and on occasion, frowned upon activity in the watch world. However, Bamford gives validity and approval by working with TAG Heuer to give us those outliers we never knew we needed, but after a period of saving – deserve.

Bamford watch department have a great tool to customer your own TAG Heuer Monaco, but I must warn you, the possibilities are truly endless.