The Rolex Explorer and Its Rivals: A Guide to Similar Luxury Watches

The History of the Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer has historically been an entry-level model within Rolex’s lineup. Its simple design as a field watch often makes it overlooked or a secondary choice for buyers.

In 1953, the Rolex Explorer ref. 6350 was launched to publicise Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay’s ascent of Mount Everest. While it’s rumored Hillary wore a Rolex Explorer Oyster Perpetual during the climb, others argue he used a Smith’s Everest. Regardless, the ref. 6350 featured a distinct honeycomb dial but was replaced within a year by the ref. 6150.

Rolex became the masters of tinkering, as the 6150 was shortly replaced by ref 1646, and again in 1963 with the now iconic, 27-year production run Rolex Explorer 1016. The 1016 has a wide array of different quirks, from the infamous ‘albino’ model which sported the cream/white dial, believed to have derived from a prototype dial to the transition away from gilt dials after 1967 to a new matte type of dials.

How the Rolex Explorer Evolved in the 21st Century

Fast-forward to the early 2000s, the Rolex Explorer 114270 was released, again, with a very negligible differences from prior models but with solid bracelet end links making the entire package feel more robust, and an upgraded 310 movement making this explorer more shock resistant. Even the lume was a newly introduced Swiss-variant of Luminova (used by the previous Rolex Explorer 14720 model) coined Super-LumiNova. If I was in the market for an Explorer right now, if I didn’t get the new 40mm, I would almost certainly get the 114270. This is on the cusp of modern Rolex, and being practically neo-vintage means I could have a steal of a watch for less than £5k, with the robustness of a 2020’s variant.

Reflecting on the sheer number of models, incremental improvements have been continually made throughout the rich 70-year history. This article would be far too long to read over a coffee if I covered every single aspect that was amended, but the standouts in my eyes have been:

• As mentioned, the transition to solid white lume in the form of Super-LumiNova. It won’t age quite like its predecessors, but the brightest that is achieved is vastly superior.


• Modernisation of the display, from acrylic crystals spanning the first 30 years, to bomb-proof sapphire crystal since 1989.


• Expansion of case sizes from the traditional 36mm, to the Rolex Explorer 39mm and even more recent, a 40mm example.

In 2023, Rolex released a 40mm variant, somewhat identical to the previous Explorer 36mm or 39mm offerings, but enough subtle changes to come out on top. For starters, the 2 lines of text looks tidier, and the 21mm wide bracelet (although not a good size for aftermarket straps compared to 20mm) proportions the large diameter on the wrist. 

Studio underd0g 02SERIES

We refer to this as the underg0d, because when something is created so differently, but appeals so widely, there’s more at play. It might not be as ground-breaking design wise as the 01SERIES, with the Watermelon being enormously popular, but it’s parodying nature of the perfectly aligned screens and playful colourway name has brought a new sense of life to the standard field watch. 

On the surface, the 02 Series model looks subdued, especially as our pick for a Rolex alternative is the black variant aptly named the ‘Midnight’. The Pink Lem0nade, Steffany blue (very good), and the Full Mo0n keep the d0g’s wild colour palette alive. With the party trick of turning the lights off to see some crazy strong luminescent plates that adorn the whole dial a different colour.

The plate itself is held in by two vertically aligned screws on the dial. These add to the depth of the dial itself, bringing an almost floating effect to further enhance the contrasting lumed colours. The screws took a little while to get onboard with, but after much Instagram zooming, we are in the approved camp.

You might ask, why pick the black? A lot of people agree. Richard Benc, founder and CEO of StudioUnderd0g helps us all out by releasing the statistics of models sold in each batch. The black variant comes out as arguably the rarest, or the least popular – glass half full or empty and all that. 

The brushed steel case, polished bezel, time-only complication makes this a no frill, no fuss offering which can be put onto a NATO strap in record timing thanks to its traditional drilled lugs. Arguably industry standard for a budding field watch, the closed caseback ensures a level of ruggedness and protection from the elements; the jellyfish is cool and nods to its luminescent properties.

Our very own Steve at 10to2 purchased the Midnight version in the latest 9 hour order window that took place on the 19^th November.

In these limited order windows, you can pick up a Studio Underd0g 02SERIES for £800.  

Sinn 556 A

Sinn watches embody German mannerisms in a way that not many other companies can. Their watches are industrial, built to serve a purpose and with not many extras attached.

The Sinn 556 A is stripped back, with a design that has largely stayed identical to models first released over 30 years ago. While Sinn may not explicitly target the field watch category, their pilot-focused designs are deeply embedded in the brand’s DNA. The watch is robust and highly legible, thanks to its bright white Super Luminova and minimalist dial design. Measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness, it maintains an understated appearance. Personally, I would take the 556 A at £960 due to the crisp 3,6,9,12 hour markers. For an even more simplistic and utilitarian design the Sinn 556 I on their H link bracelet is a great choice.

Tudor Ranger

I couldn’t leave out the little sibling of the Explorer, especially as the Tudor Ranger was refreshed in recent years. The Ranger is simple, almost underwhelming. With its new T -Fit clasp, making on-the-cuff micro-adjustments a breeze, meaning those outdoor temperature changes can be combated so the wrist doesn’t feel too tight or too loose. The Tudor Ranger’s DNA derives from the early Tudor Oyster prince taken on the British North Greenland expedition in the mid-20^th century. We have a full article about the entire back story here!

The paint-applied dial indices and Arabic numerals make the watch feel different than the Rolex Explorer, portraying a shallower, shadowless landscape across the 39mm expanse, even with a well-domed sapphire glass coverage. The contrasting red second-hand tip brings a flash of colour, and the needle-precision keeps the fundamentally time-telling accuracy at its heart. The case is wholly brushed, with a minute amount of polishing of the edge of the bezel. This unadorned package provides the sense that it could take a battering. The slightly larger size means the introduced ‘12’ dial marker is equally proportioned against the mirrored curvy 6, and the distinct lack of text keeps balance throughout. The Tudor Ranger price point is arguably the biggest draw, coming in at less than £3k (£2,860 to be exact) on the steel bracelet, and even less on the fabric or one-piece fabric strap. 

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX

IWC entry level utilitarian tool watch, the Mark XX (20) is a well-thought-out proposition at a £5k price point. 

What do I love about the IWC? Colour. I am a sucker for alternatives to the sea of Black watch faces and IWC don’t hold back. A lot of IWC propositions are partnered with an official, Pantone approved colourway. The Mark XX comes in 4 different dial configurations: black, white, blue and my top choice, green! 

Green might be so 2022, but it’s my favourite colour and in my opinion, pairing a green dial to a watch that will be used so frequently outdoors is a match made in heaven.