The Omega Seamaster Uncovered
The world of luxury dive watches is a competitive one, but few names carry as much weight as the Omega Seamaster. As a collection that spans decades of innovation, adventure, and cinematic fame, it has secured a place among the horological greats. Whether worn by James Bond with the franchise delivering the iconic “No, it’s an Omega”, deep-sea explorers, or everyday enthusiasts, the Seamaster remains a true icon.
There is so much that makes this watch special. As part of our uncovered series at 10to2, we are going to dive into the history, design, and identify our favourite models that have been released. I am sure by the end everyone will understand why the Seamaster continues to make waves in the watch world, and why it might be a contender for your next watch.
The history of the Omega Seamaster
First introduced in 1948 to commemorate Omega’s centenary, the Omega Seamaster was initially designed as a robust yet elegant watch suitable for both professional and casual wear. It was inspired by the water-resistant watches Omega supplied to the British military during World War II, and from those rugged beginnings, the Seamaster evolved into one of the most celebrated dive watches of all time.
The game-changer arrived in 1957 with the launch of the Omega Seamaster 300, a dedicated diving tool that boasted an impressive 200m water resistance (yes, the ‘300’ was a bit optimistic in those early days). Over the years, this model became a cornerstone of Omega’s lineup, undergoing multiple transformations while maintaining its classic DNA.
There has been a contentious debate for the last 50 years, whether the Seamaster is outperformed by the Rolex Submariner. However, the two can and should happily exist in parity as they both deliver similar functionality, but different design elements that may or may not appease one’s tastes.
In the 1990s, the Omega Seamaster professional became an even bigger global phenomenon when it was chosen as the official watch of James Bond, replacing the Rolex Submariner that had been the personal favourite of Ian Fleming. We say chosen, but the Rolex to Omega shift was due to an incredibly successful marketing opportunity & commercial deal that was led by none other than the watch worlds equivalent of Pep Guardiola… Jean-Claude Biver. Biver famously gave them $2m for a full suite exclusivity which included signage, access to Bond actors and the watch in continuous view of the millions of people who watch the Bond films.
Design breakdown – case, dial, and strap options
The Omega Seamaster timepiece is available in an array of designs, materials, and sizes, catering to a diverse audience. However, some key elements remain consistent across the collection.
Case
Omega Seamaster cases are a perfect fusion of rugged utility and refined aesthetics. Sizes typically range from a wearable 38mm to a commanding 45.5mm, catering to a broad spectrum of wrist sizes and preferences. Materials vary across the lineup, with stainless steel being the staple, but you’ll also find models crafted in lightweight titanium, robust ceramic, and even precious metals like Sedna™ gold in some special editions. A signature element of many Seamaster models is the twisted lyre lug design, which gives the case a dynamic, sculptural profile. Professional dive variants such as the Planet Ocean and Seamaster 300M sport functional helium escape valves, essential for saturation divers, and all models include unidirectional rotating bezels for safe dive timing. Whether you’re heading underwater or simply enjoying a watch with presence, the case construction is both purposeful and iconic.
Face
The Seamaster’s dials are a visual treat, with textured waves, sunburst finishes, and bold indices filled with Super-LumiNova for excellent legibility. Some models, like the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, opt for a more refined, dressy look with teak-patterned dials inspired by yacht decks. Colour palettes range from deep ocean blues and classic blacks to more adventurous greens and silvers, giving each Seamaster its own personality. Even the date windows and minute markers are subtly refined, designed to complement rather than distract. Whether sporty or elegant, every dial tells more than just the time – it tells a story.
Wrist space
Straps & Bracelets: From stainless steel and titanium bracelets to NATO straps and rubber bands, the Seamaster offers plenty of variety. Stainless steel bracelets with polished center links are popular on models like the Diver 300M, offering a classic and durable fit. Titanium bracelets keep things ultra-lightweight, while ceramic-linked bracelets make a bold visual statement. For a more relaxed or active vibe, Omega also offers high-quality rubber straps, particularly well-integrated on the 300M, that mold comfortably to the wrist while enhancing water resistance. NATO straps, often featured on heritage-inspired editions, add military flair and casual appeal. Whatever your preference, the Seamaster adapts effortlessly from wetsuit to weekend wear.
What about the insides?
Many modern Seamaster models are powered by Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements, certified by METAS for stringent standards in accuracy, magnetic resistance, and overall performance. These calibres, such as the 8800 and 8900 series, utilise Omega’s proprietary Co-Axial escapement technology, which reduces friction and extends service intervals. One standout feature is their resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss – far exceeding the capability of traditional antimagnetic watches, making them perfect for everyday wear in an increasingly tech-heavy world. With power reserves ranging from 55 to 60 hours and beautifully decorated rotor finishes visible through sapphire casebacks, these movements aren’t just workhorses – they’re mechanical marvels.
Lineup overview and our picks
Leveraging the Co-Axial movement, the Omega Seamaster lineup has expanded over recent years, and it is no longer a quick decision to make when picking out our favourite across the range.
The Seamaster is not standalone, and as an overview we can break them down into the following!
Omega Seamaster 300 Master
It was harder than I expected to pick out a stand-out model of the Omega Seamaster 300 range. In an attempt to put my personal bias aside, I have discounted the Omega Seamaster 300m green (commonly known as the “Seaweed”). Instead, I challenged myself on what defines a standout.
Therefore, whilst the core range is excellent, with the Omega Seamaster black bezel and white face bringing a contrasting pop, the blue dial and blue bezel Seamaster longing for the summer, I decided it had to be different than just a unique colour.
This whittled it down to either the James Bond Omega Seamaster 300m in titanium, or the newly released no-date Seamaster. On this occasion (and I am sure if you ask me again next week it will change), I would pick the Bond Seamaster. Why? The 42mm titanium Seamaster comes with a gorgeous tan hue which elevates this above the rest. Don’t get me wrong, I had to challenge the Bond gimmick and put that to one side. Thankfully, the 007 references are confined to the caseback.
Omega Ploprof – Diving to the next level
This comes with 1200m of water resistance and a unique case design, more on that to follow. The Omega Seamaster Ploprof (“professional diver”) was introduced in 1970 as an extreme dive watch designed in collaboration with Jacques Cousteau and Comex. Featuring a monobloc case, a locking bezel system, and 600m water resistance, it was built to withstand saturation diving without needing a helium escape valve. The original Ploprof 600 (Ref. 166.077) was discontinued in 1979, but Omega revived it in 2009 as the Ploprof 1200M, and a modern titanium or steel case. Updated in 2016 with the Master Chronometer 8912, the Ploprof remains a cult favourite, albeit one that may be perceived as a mobile wall clock.
Our pick of the Ploprof’s is controversially not the newest release which came out with a “Summer Blue” dial and bezel. We would take the previous model, the 2013 Omega Ploprof with its standout orange minute hand and orange rubber strap. These can be picked up for under 50% of the price of a brand-new model, for arguably a better looking watch.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Master
600m water resistance, complete with a helium escape valve, aimed at hardcore professional divers and typically a beefier proposition
The pick of the bunch this time is the Summer Blue Planet Ocean released in 2023. In formed part of a wider release that utilised this colourway, but the vertically brushed punchy blue really suits that Planet Ocean. The Miami-esque aquatic blue releases celebrated the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster.
Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep
You might be thinking, another extreme diver? This one outperforms everything in the line-up and pretty much anything else in the mechanical world of watches.
Omega & Rolex have been battling for deep sea notoriety for many years. Omega’s Seamaster Ultra Deep, originally designed for the 10,928-meter (35,853 ft) descent into the Mariana Trench, showcases cutting-edge materials such as titanium and Liquidmetal to ensure extreme water resistance. Compared to the Rolex Deepsea, which boasts a 3,900-meter (12,800 ft) depth rating, Omega pushes the boundaries with models rated up to 6,000 meters (19,685 ft). Give an inch, take a mile – Omega certainly has.
Again, I like the Summer edition with its hidden easter egg only visible under UV light. As a package, I would pick the punchy, rich blue Ultra Deep to join my collection if I had to make the choice. It might be thicc, but it wears smaller than you might think.
As you can see from all these models, each Seamaster is rigorously tested to ensure it meets Omega’s stringent goals & quality standards. It has earned its reputation one of the most reliable dive watches on the market where water resistance is concerned.
Drowning thoughts
The Omega Seamaster has earned its place as one of the most respected dive watches in horology. Whether you’re drawn to its history, technical prowess, or Hollywood glamour, there’s a Seamaster for everyone. With its blend of rugged durability and refined elegance, this is a watch that can truly do it all – from boardrooms to ocean depths.
If you’re considering a classic Omega Seamaster watch, the Omega Seamaster 300 range offers several standout models, but the titanium James Bond Seamaster takes the crown for its unique tan hue and restrained 007 branding. The Ploprof remains a cult favorite, with the 2013 model’s orange accents providing better value than newer releases. The Planet Ocean 600m impresses, especially the 2023 Summer Blue edition, while the Ultra Deep dominates extreme diving with unmatched depth resistance. Across all models, Omega’s commitment to quality and water resistance solidifies the Seamaster’s reputation as a top-tier dive watch and who knows? With one of these on your wrist, you might just feel like Bond himself.
Win an Omega Seamaster 300m – enter today
Don’t miss your chance to own an Omega Seamaster 300m. Enter our live competition for the opportunity to win an Omega Seamaster.
Tickets are only £2 and limited to 4000 entries, so get your entry in before it’s too late.
Please note: competition closes at 9:00pm on the 30th March 2025
