Top Vintage Watches That Have Stood the Course of Time
In the world of horology, few things capture the imagination quite like vintage men’s luxury watches. With their timeless designs, rich histories, and potential for value appreciation, these watches have become highly desirable to collectors and investors alike. Owning a vintage timepiece is not just about telling time; it is about owning a piece of history, an artifact of craftsmanship that transcends generations.
In this article, I will explore what makes a watch vintage, whether vintage watches hold or increase in value, the most sought-after vintage watch brands, and where to buy vintage watches in the UK. I will also take an in-depth look at renowned brands like Omega, Cartier, Longines, and Rolex – all so rich in luxury watch heritage – to try and understand why they continue to be valuable investments.
The heritage and history of watch brands continues to be a key ingredient in the design of many watches produced today, so I’ll finish off by taking a look at how vintage watches became the inspiration for some of today’s most luxury men’s watches.
What makes a watch ‘vintage’?
The term ‘vintage’ is often used loosely, but in horological terms, a vintage watch typically refers to one that is at least 20-30 years old. Unlike modern luxury watches, which benefit from cutting-edge technology, vintage watches showcase the artistry and craftsmanship of a bygone era.
Key characteristics of a vintage watch include:
- Age: Typically, watches produced before the 1990s are considered vintage.
- Design & Materials: Vintage watches often feature designs that reflect the era of their creation, using materials such as acrylic crystals, tritium lume (one of the oldest kinds of luminescent material found on watches), and hand-finished movements.
- Movement: Many vintage luxury watches use mechanical or automatic movements that are revered for their craftsmanship and durability.
- Historical Significance: Watches with historical relevance—whether due to their association with iconic figures, use in significant events, or unique design features—tend also to be highly collectible.
Will all vintage watches hold or increase in value?
The term ‘vintage’ is often used loosely, but in horological terms, a vintage watch typically refers to one that is at least 20-30 years old. Unlike modern luxury watches, which benefit from cutting-edge technology, vintage watches showcase the artistry and craftsmanship of a bygone era.
Key characteristics of a vintage watch include:
- Age: Typically, watches produced before the 1990s are considered vintage.
- Design & Materials: Vintage watches often feature designs that reflect the era of their creation, using materials such as acrylic crystals, tritium lume (one of the oldest kinds of luminescent material found on watches), and hand-finished movements.
- Movement: Many vintage luxury watches use mechanical or automatic movements that are revered for their craftsmanship and durability.
- Historical Significance: Watches with historical relevance—whether due to their association with iconic figures, use in significant events, or unique design features—tend also to be highly collectible.
The Guardian once reported that many luxury watch collectors were turning to older watches. They reported that “their dull patina was considered a sign of class.” What a wonderful phrase! This is why we see legends such as rockstar Eric Clapton and actor Daniel Craig sporting many vintage luxury watches in their collections!
It is crucial for collectors and investors to do thorough research before purchasing a vintage watch. Authenticity verification, servicing history, and avoiding over-polished or heavily restored pieces are key factors to consider.
Most sought-after vintage watch brands
Several luxury watch brands stand out as excellent investment options due to their rich history, enduring desirability, and solid resale value. Let’s take a look at some of the most sought-after vintage luxury watch brands.
Vintage Rolex watches
No discussion of vintage watches is complete without mentioning Rolex. Known for its precision, durability, and classic designs, Rolex has long been a favourite among collectors. Notable vintage Rolex watch models include Rolex Submariner (Ref. 5513), Rolex Daytona (Ref. 6263) and the Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 1675).
Rolex watches are renowned for their ability to hold and even appreciate in value over time. As inflation drives higher prices for new luxury Rolex watches, we’re seeing the values of most past models pulled upwards. Ultimately, the timeless design and mechanical excellence of any well-kept Rolex will ensure they remain in demand.
Vintage Omega watches
Omega has been synonymous with quality and innovation for over a century. The brand’s vintage pieces, particularly those linked to space exploration and professional diving, are highly sought after. Notable Omega vintage luxury watch models include the Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” (Ref. 105.012), Omega Seamaster 300 (Ref. 165.024) and the Omega Constellation Pie-Pan.
I love some of the vintage Omegas and you can see the parentage of these in many of their current Omega watches. The vintage Omega Speedmasters have a really strong collector following and their values have remained bouyant. Their historical significance and durable movements make them a really solid long-term investment.
Vintage Cartier watches
Cartier is renowned for its timeless elegance and iconic designs. Always rich in design, Vintage Cartier watches often feature Art Deco influences and luxurious materials. There are many vintage luxury watch models from Cartier and my favourites are the Cartier Tank (Ref. 2441), Cartier Santos (Ref. 2961) and the Cartier Pasha.
Good quality, well kept Cartier watches have turned out to be a robust investment. Cartier watches combine heritage, artistry, and exclusivity. Certain vintage models, especially early Tanks and Santos models, are increasing in value due to their timeless and classic appeal.
Vintage Longines watches
Longines has a storied history of producing high-quality timepieces known for their precision and elegance. Notable vintage luxury watch models include the Longines Chronograph 13ZN, Longines Conquest and Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch.
Why would you invest in a vintage luxury Longines watch? Longines watches, particularly their chronographs and pilot watches, are becoming increasingly collectible due to their exceptionally long history, innovative movements and very classic aesthetics.
Where to buy vintage watches in the UK
Finding a trustworthy source for purchasing vintage watches is crucial to ensure authenticity and fair pricing. In the UK, there are several reputable avenues to explore including watch dealers, auction houses specialising in luxury watches, online vintage luxury watch marketplaces and vintage watch shows and fairs.
Personally, I love walking down the Burlington Arcade in Picadilly, London and browsing in the windows of The Vintage Watch Company, David Duggan Watches, The Watch Exchange London and Maunder Watches. Alongside many beautiful current luxury watches you’ll spot some amazing pre owned watches. Take a look at A Collected Man too, specialising in rare vintage and independent watchmakers.
Auction houses can be great places to find a rare vintage luxury watch. London is fortunate to have Sotheby’s, Christies and Bonhams; all of which have specialist vintage watch auctions. Bonhams have a weekly online watch auction and Christies hold international watch auctions (physical & online) on a regular basis and they sell watches too.
As you’d imagine, there are numerous online platforms offer extensive vintage watch collections, but as with all internet offerings please always be careful to vet the reliability and authenticity of the seller. Chrono24 and eBay are international luxury watch markets and it’s been interesting to see eBay introducing an authenticity guarantee. Two particular favourites of mine are Somlo based in London’s famous Burlington Arcade specialising in pre owned Omega, Cartier and Piaget; and Alex Stevens Vintage in Richmond, London.
Attending watch fairs allows collectors to inspect watches in person and engage with knowledgeable sellers. The London Watch Fair on 29 June 2025 and the Birmingham Clock & Watch Fair on 16 March 2025 are both well worth attending, with over 5,000 watches on display for sale from 70+ international dealers.
Joining vintage watch forums and enthusiast communities can provide great access to private sales and valuable insights. The Omega Forums and Rolex Forums are particulary effective and RedBar London (a collector’s group for networking and buying opportunities) is an interesting emerging network for watch enthusiasts.
Lasting designs from vintage luxury watches
Before I conclude and sign-off I just wanted to reflect on the fact that many luxury brands continue to create modern watches inspired by their heritage. Three classics that stand out for me are the Rolex Explorer, the Omega Speedmaster 321 Ed White and the Cartier Santos-Dumont.
Rolex Explorer
The Rolex Explorer traces its roots back to the 1953 model worn by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their Everest expedition. What a beautiful vintage watch. It absolutely stands the course of time (excuse the pun) today. The modern version retains its rugged elegance while incorporating updated materials and movements.
Omega Speedmaster 321 Ed White
The current Omega Speedmaster 321 Ed White is inspired by the original Speedmaster worn by astronaut Ed White during the first American spacewalk in 1965.
The lastest model revives the legendary Calibre 321 movement, renowned for its historical significance and craftsmanship. Again, I think the original is an absolute classic.
Cartier Santos-Dumont
The look and feel of the original Cartier Santos, designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, and a great example of a vintage gold watch, is still very evident today.
Retaining its Art Deco aesthetics while featuring modern enhancements, the modern day Santos-Dumont continues to be an icon of luxury and aviation heritage.
Conclusion
Investing in vintage men’s watches is a rewarding pursuit that blends passion with financial potential. While not all vintage watches will appreciate in value, brands like Rolex, Omega, Cartier, and Longines have demonstrated consistent desirability. By purchasing from reputable dealers, auction houses, and trusted online marketplaces, collectors can ensure they acquire authentic, high-quality timepieces.
Whether you are a seasoned collector or a first-time investor, vintage watches offer a unique opportunity to own a piece of horological history while potentially seeing your investment grow over time.
So, choose wisely, maintain your watch properly, retain all of the provenance and enjoy the timeless elegance that only a vintage timepiece can offer. As we can all see, today’s watch designs are very much rooted in yesterday’s watches, with the vintage looks being in vogue across many luxury products. So not only will your vintage watch likely come back into fashion, but you never know what the value of the vintage luxury watch you’re wearing today might be in the future. Much to enjoy!
